How to Grow Peas (Matar) at Home in Pakistan
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Peas, commonly called matar or mattar (مٹر), are cool-season vegetables grown for their sweet green seeds and tender pods. Their climbing vines fit well in pots, raised beds and small home gardens when provided with a net or trellis.
Seeds are sown directly where the plants will remain. They normally emerge within 6 to 10 days, and many garden pea varieties begin providing mature pods around 60 to 75 days after sowing.
The main requirements are cool weather, direct sunlight, support for the vines and steady moisture during flowering. Hot weather, dry soil and excessive nitrogen can cause flower drop, empty pods or long vines with little fruiting.
Quick Guide
| Growing Detail | Recommendation |
|---|---|
| Best season | Autumn and winter |
| Main sowing time | October to January |
| Punjab sowing time | October to December |
| Hotter areas | November to January |
| Suitable temperature | Approximately 10°C to 24°C |
| Germination time | Usually 6 to 10 days |
| Sowing method | Direct sowing |
| Sowing depth | Around ½ to 1 inch |
| Final spacing | Approximately 3 to 4 inches |
| Row spacing | Around 12 to 24 inches |
| Sunlight | At least six hours |
| Container depth | At least 12 to 14 inches |
| Support height | Commonly 3 to 5 feet |
| First pod harvest | Usually 60 to 75 days after sowing |
Best Time
Peas grow most reliably in cool weather. Germination, flowering and pod filling become less dependable when daytime temperatures remain above approximately 27°C.
In Lahore, Faisalabad and much of Punjab, sow from October to December. A small additional sowing can be made during early January if the weather remains cool enough for the plants to flower before spring heat arrives.
In Islamabad and Rawalpindi, sow from October to November for winter peas. Another small sowing may be made during February for a spring harvest. Very cold periods can slow growth, while severe frost may damage flowers and young pods.
In hotter southern Punjab, including Multan, Bahawalpur and Sadiqabad, begin during November after warm weather has eased. Sowing can continue into January where mild conditions are expected for the following two months.
In Karachi and coastal Sindh, October into December is the main starting period. A January sowing may remain possible in a cool, sunny position, but late plants can lose their flowers when temperatures rise early.
In colder northern and hilly areas, sow from March to April after severe frost is no longer expected. Another planting may be possible near the end of summer if enough mild weather remains before winter.
Peas commonly need 60 to 75 days from sowing to their first useful pods. Count forward from the sowing date and avoid planting so late that flowering will occur during hot weather.
Utah State University Extension notes that peas perform poorly when temperatures rise above approximately 27°C.
Choosing Pea Seeds
Choose peas according to how you want to use the pods and seeds.
Desi Matar Seeds produce familiar green peas for shelling and using in aloo matar, matar pulao, keema matar, soups and mixed vegetables.
F1 Hybrid Pea Seeds are suitable when more even vine growth and pods reaching the picking stage within a closer period are preferred.
Peas Microgreens Seeds are intended for dense sowing and early shoot harvesting. Microgreens are not given the spacing or growing time required for mature pea vines and pods.
Pots, Beds and Support
Choose a container at least 12 to 14 inches deep and wide. Peas need enough soil for their roots and enough surface area for several correctly spaced plants.
A 12 to 14-inch-wide round pot can normally hold three or four pea plants arranged around a central support. A wide rectangular planter can hold a row with approximately 3 to 4 inches between plants.
A 10 Gallon Grow Bag provides enough room for a small group of peas when it is filled with loose soil and placed beside a strong support.
Drainage holes are essential. Empty any saucer that remains filled after the container has drained.
Install a trellis, net or set of stakes before sowing. Adding support after the roots have spread through the pot can damage them.
A support around 3 to 5 feet tall suits many home-garden varieties. Check the seed packet because some dwarf peas remain shorter and some climbing peas grow taller.
Use plastic netting, wire mesh, thin bamboo sticks or strings tied between firm posts. The gaps should be small enough for young tendrils to reach and grip.
In a garden bed, leave approximately 12 to 24 inches between rows. Place the support along the row so both sides remain accessible for watering and harvesting.
Soil Preparation
Peas grow best in loose, fertile soil that holds some moisture but drains freely.
Break hard lumps and remove stones, sticks and large pieces of undecomposed material. Compacted soil can restrict the roots and hold too much water around them.
Mix mature compost or Vermicompost into the soil before sowing. A moderate amount is sufficient because peas do not need excessively rich soil.
For containers, combine garden soil with mature compost, coco peat and a drainage material such as perlite. Do not use compacted garden soil or coco peat alone.
Avoid fresh manure. It can damage young roots and encourage excessive leafy growth.
Water the prepared soil before sowing. It should feel evenly damp and crumbly without becoming muddy.
Should Pea Seeds Be Soaked?
Fresh pea seeds can be sown without soaking.
A short soak of approximately 4 to 6 hours can soften dry seeds and encourage more even germination. Drain the seeds and sow them immediately afterwards.
Do not leave pea seeds submerged overnight in warm weather or for several days. They need oxygen and may begin rotting when left in water too long.
Seeds that are cracked, soft, mouldy or damaged by insects should be discarded.
Soaking cannot restore seeds that are dead or have been stored badly. Test a few seeds in a small pot when their age or condition is uncertain.
How to Sow
Peas should normally be sown directly because established seedlings can be disturbed when moved.
- Install the trellis or net beside the planting row.
- Make holes or a shallow row approximately ½ to 1 inch deep.
- Place the seeds around 2 inches apart.
- Cover them with fine, loose soil.
- Press the surface very lightly so the seeds contact the damp soil.
- Water gently without exposing or moving the seeds.
- Keep the upper soil moist until seedlings appear.
After germination, remove weak or damaged seedlings to leave approximately 3 to 4 inches between plants in a container.
In a garden bed, closer spacing may work when the soil is fertile and both sides of the supported row receive sunlight. Follow the packet when it recommends a different final distance.
Utah State University Extension recommends sowing peas approximately ½ to 1 inch deep and 1 to 2 inches apart, with 12 to 24 inches between rows. Container gardeners can leave additional final space to improve airflow and access.
Germination
Pea seedlings normally emerge within 6 to 10 days in cool, evenly moist soil. Cold soil may extend germination beyond ten days.
The first shoot may appear as a curved green stem. Leaves and small tendrils develop as the seedling becomes taller.
Give seedlings direct sunlight as soon as they emerge. Weak light produces pale, stretched stems that fall away from their support.
Keep the soil moist without saturating it. Large pea seeds can rot when they remain surrounded by waterlogged soil.
If few seedlings appear after two weeks, check a small section of the row for:
- Old or poorly stored seeds
- Seeds damaged by insects
- Sowing too deeply
- Soil drying after sowing
- Seeds rotting in wet soil
- Birds or rodents removing seeds
- Temperatures being too hot or too cold
Do not continue watering when the lower soil is already wet. Improve drainage and allow excess moisture to leave.
A light protective net can prevent birds from pulling newly emerged seedlings. Remove or raise the covering before the vines become tangled in it.
Thinning Seedlings
Thin crowded seedlings when they are approximately 3 to 4 inches tall.
Keep the strongest plants and leave around 3 to 4 inches between them in a container. Closely spaced plants compete for sunlight and are harder to inspect for aphids or leaf disease.
Cut unwanted seedlings at soil level if pulling them might disturb nearby roots.
Do not repeatedly move established seedlings from one pot to another. Peas grow quickly when sown directly and may stop temporarily after root disturbance.
Guide the remaining seedlings towards their support after thinning.
Growth Stages
| Approximate Time | What to Expect |
|---|---|
| First week | Seeds absorb moisture and begin developing |
| 6 to 10 days | Seedlings emerge |
| 2 to 3 weeks | Leaves and small tendrils develop |
| 3 to 5 weeks | Vines begin climbing their support |
| 5 to 8 weeks | Flowers commonly begin appearing |
| Following weeks | Young pods form and gradually fill |
| Around 60 to 75 days | Many varieties begin providing mature green pods |
| Later growth | Flowering slows as the weather warms or plants age |
The exact timing depends on the variety, temperature, sunlight, spacing and soil moisture.
Early flowering does not mean that pods are ready immediately. Shelling peas normally need several more days for the seeds to enlarge inside the pods.
Plant Care
Sunlight
Give peas at least six hours of direct sunlight daily.
Cool winter sunlight supports stronger vines, flowering and pod filling. Too much shade can produce long stems with fewer flowers.
Place a container where walls, railings and larger plants will not block most of the available sunlight.
Morning and midday sunlight with light afternoon protection can help late-season plants when temperatures begin rising. The vines still need several hours of direct light.
Watering
Keep the upper soil consistently moist during germination.
After seedlings establish, allow the surface to begin drying before watering again. Apply enough water to moisten the full root area and allow the extra water to drain.
There is no fixed schedule that suits every pea container. Pot size, wind, temperature, sunlight and soil texture all affect how quickly moisture is lost.
Containers may need checking every one to three days during dry weather. Garden beds normally retain moisture longer.
Moisture becomes especially important when flowers appear and peas begin filling inside the pods. Dry soil during this stage can cause flowers to fall or pods to remain flat.
Avoid allowing the soil to become completely dry and then soaking it heavily.
Water near the base during the morning. Repeatedly wetting dense vines during cool evenings can encourage powdery mildew and other leaf problems.
Training Vines
Guide young tendrils towards the net as soon as the vines begin lengthening.
Most tendrils will grip a nearby support without tying. Use a loose strip of soft cloth when a stem repeatedly falls away.
Do not pull or bend stiff older stems. They can snap where they join the main vine.
Check the support after strong wind. A leaning trellis can pull several plants out of the soil.
Keep pods and lower vines off damp soil where possible. This improves airflow and makes damage easier to notice.
Feeding
Peas normally need only light feeding when compost or vermicompost was added before sowing.
Excessive nitrogen can produce long, dark green vines with fewer flowers. Check sunlight, spacing, temperature, moisture and drainage before applying fertilizer.
If established plants remain pale after these conditions have been checked, mix NPK 20-20-20 at one teaspoon in 1 litre of water.
Apply it to already damp soil. Repeat after 10 to 15 days only if another feeding is needed.
Allow 7 to 10 days between applying the fertilizer and harvesting edible pods.
Do not pour concentrated fertilizer beside the stems. Excess fertilizer can damage roots and cause leaf edges to turn brown.
Weeding and Mulching
Remove weeds while they are small. Work carefully because deep digging beside established peas can cut their roots.
A thin layer of dry leaves, straw or another suitable mulch can reduce moisture loss from a garden bed.
Keep thick, wet mulch away from the stems. Constant moisture against the base can encourage decay.
Do not place mulch over the row before the seedlings emerge.
Flowers and Pod Formation
Pea flowers are commonly white, although some edible varieties may have coloured flowers.
Most garden peas are self-pollinating. A flower can form a pod without requiring a separate male and female plant.
Flowers may fall without forming pods when the weather becomes hot, the soil dries repeatedly or the plant receives insufficient sunlight.
Keep the soil evenly moist and avoid applying strong fertilizer during flowering.
A newly formed pod will be small and flat. Allow it time to lengthen and fill before deciding that development has failed.
Once daytime heat remains high, removing flowers will not make the plant return to strong cool-season growth. Harvest the remaining suitable pods and plan the next sowing for milder weather.
Common Problems
| Problem | What to Check | What to Do |
|---|---|---|
| Seeds fail to sprout | Old seed, dry soil, deep sowing or waterlogging | Use healthy seed, sow shallowly and maintain gentle moisture |
| Seeds disappear | Birds, rodents or disturbed soil | Use light netting and inspect the row after watering |
| Seedlings become tall and weak | Insufficient sunlight | Move containers into stronger direct light |
| Seedling stems collapse | Saturated soil, poor airflow or damaged roots | Remove affected seedlings and improve drainage |
| Leaves turn yellow | Wet roots, prolonged dryness or root damage | Inspect the soil before applying fertilizer |
| Vines make leaves but no flowers | Excess nitrogen, shade or unsuitable temperature | Stop unnecessary feeding and improve sunlight |
| Flowers fall without pods | Heat, dry soil or severe stress | Maintain moisture and grow during cooler weather |
| Pods remain flat | Pods are immature, or flowers were stressed | Allow more time and keep the root area evenly moist |
| Leaves become sticky or curled | Aphids feeding on tender tips | Wash off small groups and inspect new growth |
| Pale winding trails appear | Leaf miners feeding inside leaves | Remove badly affected leaves |
| White powder covers leaves | Powdery mildew encouraged by crowded vines | Improve airflow and remove badly affected foliage |
| Holes appear in leaves or pods | Caterpillars or other chewing insects | Inspect the vines and remove visible insects |
| Plants wilt in wet soil | Root decay or poor drainage | Stop unnecessary watering and improve drainage |
| Pods become hard and fibrous | Delayed harvesting or warm weather | Pick pods earlier and check the plants frequently |
Inspect the vines before applying any treatment. Washing away a small aphid group or removing one badly affected leaf may be sufficient.
For persistent aphids and other soft-bodied leaf pests, mix Neem Oil at 3 to 5 ml per litre of water, unless its label provides a different dilution.
Spray during a cool morning or evening. Cover affected growing tips and leaf undersides without soaking the flowers unnecessarily.
Allow 7 to 10 days before harvesting treated pea pods.
Neem oil will not repair damaged pods, diseased roots or leaves already covered with dead tissue. Remove badly affected material and improve the growing conditions.
Harvesting Peas
Begin checking the plants around 60 days after sowing. The packet’s maturity period is the best starting point because varieties develop at different speeds.
Harvest garden or shelling peas when the pods are bright green, rounded and feel full. The peas inside should be developed but still tender.
Pick snow peas while the pods remain flat and crisp, before the seeds become large.
Pick snap peas when the edible pods become plump but remain crisp and tender.
Hold the vine with one hand and remove the pod with the other. Pulling with one hand can tear the stem from its support.
Check the plants every one or two days during the main harvesting period. Mature pods left on the vine can become tough and may slow the formation of further flowers.
Harvest during the cool morning when the pods are firm.
Open one sample pod if maturity is uncertain. Small peas need more time, while hard or starchy peas were left on the vine too long.
Saving Pea Seeds
Choose healthy plants and leave several suitable pods unpicked.
Allow the pods to change from green to yellow or brown. The seeds inside should become hard and dry.
Collect the pods before they split and scatter their seeds. Open them over a clean tray and remove damaged or discoloured peas.
Dry the seeds further in a shaded, ventilated place before storage. Store only completely dry seeds in a labelled airtight container away from heat and moisture.
Seeds saved from a non-hybrid variety can be used for the next suitable planting season.
Seeds collected from an F1 Hybrid plant may germinate, but the new plants may differ from the original variety in height, pod shape, maturity and other characteristics.
Storage
Fresh peas lose sweetness and tenderness after harvesting, so use them as soon as practical.
Keep unwashed pods in a loose or perforated bag inside the refrigerator’s vegetable drawer.
Shell the peas shortly before cooking. Pods that become slimy, develop soft decay or have an unpleasant smell should be discarded.
Extra shelled peas can be blanched briefly, cooled, drained and frozen in small portions.
Dry peas intended for storage must be fully mature and hard. Keep them in a clean airtight container and inspect them occasionally for moisture or insects.
Do not store planting seeds while they are still soft or damp.
FAQs
Do pea plants need pruning or pinching?
Pea vines do not need regular pruning. Removing the main growing tip can reduce the number of flowering points. Guide loose vines onto their support and remove only broken, badly diseased or completely dry growth.
How long will pea plants keep giving pods?
Many garden peas provide pods for approximately two to four weeks while the weather remains cool. The period depends on the variety, temperature and plant health. Check the vines frequently so mature pods do not remain hidden among the leaves.
Why are some peas smaller than others inside the same pod?
Peas near the ends of a pod may develop more slowly than those in the middle. Leave a bright green pod for a little longer if it is still flat. If the pod has stopped enlarging during hot or dry weather, the smaller peas may not fill completely.
Can fresh green peas be used as planting seeds?
Fresh peas removed for cooking are normally too immature to store and germinate reliably. Seeds intended for planting must mature fully until they become hard and dry inside yellow or brown pods.
Where should I place the pea trellis?
When peas share a bed with shorter vegetables, place the trellis along the northern side where it will block less winter sunlight. A long row running north to south can also help both sides of the vines receive light during the day.
Should pea roots be removed after the vines finish?
Healthy roots can be cut off below the stem and left to break down in the soil. Remove the entire root system when plants suffered from root decay, unexplained wilting or soil pests. Diseased roots should not be mixed into potting soil for the next planting.
